Ephesus had splendid homes and courtyards. Remnants of aqueducts show how water came from afar, to be heated for baths in big cauldrons made of copper. Ephesus even had a communal latrine where people, instead of crouching, could sit on slabs of stone with well-situated holes and water running alongside and underneath. But spiritual needs were supposed to be met by reverence offered to great leaders like the emperor, or offered to the works of human hands, big or little idols.

 Rites at the Ephesus arena were all designed to glorify Man, and the gods men created in their own image. A big day began with the slaughter of wild animals, so that audiences would understand that even beyond the boundaries of the arena, Man was in control. Arena games also included executions, designed to show that the empire is a place of order. Crucify the prisoners. Have animals tear them alive. Burn them.

 What could stand up against that affluent cruelty? What could appeal to men and women who had everything that Roman gold could buy, but yearned for something more? Luke knew: He contrasted a baby born in a manger to the Antiochians, Ephesians, and others wearing elegant robes and living in fine houses. He taught that God came to earth to redeem human beings, which means that we humans cannot save ourselves.

 The ruins of Ephesus are a warning to those of us who trust in affluence. These days, the wind roars through ancient arches by which grow thistles the size of a fist. Almost all of the flowers have massive thorns.