They appreciate how certain delicate flavors and tastes work with the food they are eating, for that is pretty much all they do with wine: serve it with meals. They do not stage elaborate tastings of very old -- i.e., dead -- wines; they do not stage tastings so they can fawn over the latest 16 percent alcohol fruit bomb.

The wines that appeal most to those who appreciate delicacy are usually made by the same wineries. Many of these are small, long-established houses who have a sophisticated -- but, alas, dwindling, clientele. A handful of these are producers who focus on structure more than weight; others are newer and try to develop a list of patrons who appreciate how their wines work with dinner.

In Napa Valley, there are a few wineries that still make wines with the balance to work with food. Napas stylistic heroes include Stony Hill, Trefethen, Stags Leap Wine Cellars, Freemark Abbey, Robert Sinskey, Clos du Val, Grgich Hills, Chimney Rock, Silverado, Mayacamas, Chateau Montelena, and Corison.

In Sonoma County there are Dry Creek Vineyards, Gundlach-Bundschu, Geyser Peak, Moshin, Rodney Strong, Kunde, Matanzas Creek, Williams Selyem, Dutton-Goldfield, and at least a dozen more.

And there are others in other areas of California.

Not every wine produced by each of these wineries is, de facto, a delicate wine. But these houses produce wines of balance more often than others who aim to make two-by-fours with sledgehammer status. And not every house that focuses on delicacy is listed here. There are others, some of them much smaller, with less availability.

Those who arent sure of the style of a particular wine should ask a well-informed wine merchant, and if the answer comes back, Well, that wine got a 93 and is powerful, rich, etc., put it back and look for something with less than 14 percent alcohol.

Chances are your dinner will benefit.

Wine of the Week: 2006 Napa Landing Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa County ($8): A delicate (12.5 percent alcohol) red wine with attractive cherry and dried herb aroma and a food-friendly palate approach. Not a great wine, but easy to pair with a wide variety of foods.